FAQs and Information
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May I reprint your article(s) on my website, Facebook group, or elsewhere?
We're flattered, but please don't. All of our articles and photos are our own work, and are protected under standard copyright laws. Taking our work and republishing it without permission elsewhere is not OK. :(
If you wish to share the information here, feel free to link to our site with a brief excerpt or summary in a way that will not violate copyright laws. If we need to make updates, corrections or additions to an article, it's best if it is all in one place rather than having several different versions floating around the internet. In general, copyright law does allow printing out articles from the internet to share with 4-H groups, etc. as long as you are not republishing them elsewhere. If you wish to print one of our articles in a magazine, newsletter, etc. feel free to contact us . . . we may be willing to give permission for reprints in some cases.
If you wish to share the information here, feel free to link to our site with a brief excerpt or summary in a way that will not violate copyright laws. If we need to make updates, corrections or additions to an article, it's best if it is all in one place rather than having several different versions floating around the internet. In general, copyright law does allow printing out articles from the internet to share with 4-H groups, etc. as long as you are not republishing them elsewhere. If you wish to print one of our articles in a magazine, newsletter, etc. feel free to contact us . . . we may be willing to give permission for reprints in some cases.
How do I find out when rabbit shows are happening?
The American Rabbit Breeder's Association website at http://www.arba.net has a listing of shows in each state and region.
For ARBA District 1, which is Alaska, Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Western Canada (Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia and the Yukon Territory) and Japan, the website to keep an eye on is http://www.arbadist1.com There are also some great Yahoo! groups about rabbits, including the NorthwestReporter group.
If you are in 4-H or interested in attending 4-H shows, check with your local 4-H extension office.
For ARBA District 1, which is Alaska, Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Western Canada (Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia and the Yukon Territory) and Japan, the website to keep an eye on is http://www.arbadist1.com There are also some great Yahoo! groups about rabbits, including the NorthwestReporter group.
If you are in 4-H or interested in attending 4-H shows, check with your local 4-H extension office.
What does "pedigreed" and "registered" mean, and what's a "leg"?
A pedigree is a record showing the ancestors of a rabbit for at least 3 generations. It should include the name, variety (color), ear number, registration number and grand champion number (if applicable) and weight on a rabbit, its parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents. This is the proof that the rabbit is purebred, and it can also be very helpful in determining what color and size its offspring are likely to be. Most pedigrees will also include information about a rabbit's winnings, such as how many legs it has.
The ARBA only added the requirement relatively recently that pedigrees must include weights on all rabbits in order for a rabbit to be registered, so many older pedigrees do not include weights on all the ancestors.
In order to be registered, a rabbit must have a complete pedigree showing that it is purebred for at least 3 generations. It must be inspected by a registrar and shown to fit the breed standard in every respect, with no disqualifications. Then the registrar sends this information to the ARBA, where it is kept on file.
At any ARBA-sanctioned show, a rabbit winning in a class of 5 or more rabbits shown by 3 or more different breeders will earn a grand champion leg. A rabbit who has 3 legs, at least one earned after the rabbit is a senior, can be registered as a grand champion and then has the right to have the prefix "Grand Champion" or GC in front of its name.
The ARBA only added the requirement relatively recently that pedigrees must include weights on all rabbits in order for a rabbit to be registered, so many older pedigrees do not include weights on all the ancestors.
In order to be registered, a rabbit must have a complete pedigree showing that it is purebred for at least 3 generations. It must be inspected by a registrar and shown to fit the breed standard in every respect, with no disqualifications. Then the registrar sends this information to the ARBA, where it is kept on file.
At any ARBA-sanctioned show, a rabbit winning in a class of 5 or more rabbits shown by 3 or more different breeders will earn a grand champion leg. A rabbit who has 3 legs, at least one earned after the rabbit is a senior, can be registered as a grand champion and then has the right to have the prefix "Grand Champion" or GC in front of its name.
Do Rabbits Bite?
Aggressive, persistent biting is not normal in rabbits that are bred for good temperaments, as ours are. It's normal for rabbits to chew on anything and everything, to mistake a finger stuck through the wire for a carrot, or to make an experimental nip once in a while. Never stick your finger in a rabbit's mouth or attempt to pet its chin--they prefer to be petted from the forehead on back, and don't like having their faces messed with.
It is important never to allow your rabbit to nip or bite humans, even gently or in play--please see this article on how to handle it (when) if they try it. Just like with dogs or any other pet, rabbits must be taught how to interact appropriately with humans.
It is normal for a rabbit's claws to accidentally scratch you if they are not trimmed often, and they can kick or struggle to get away if they are frightened, startled, or see their cage nearby and want to get in it. You can manage this by holding the rabbit gently and securely, and sometimes it helps to cover the rabbit's eyes or put it in and out of the cage backwards. The more you handle the rabbit confidently and firmly but gently in a way that helps it feel secure, the less it will tend to accidentally scratch you. Keeping the nails very short and smooth is the biggest thing you can do to avoid being scratched.
The karate-kick of death, directed very specifically at you in an attempt to harm you, is not normal in a rabbit with a good temperament.
We do not tolerate aggression or meanness in our rabbits, and we select for good temperaments. In our experience, temperament is greatly affected by heredity, although it is also influenced by the way the rabbit is socialized and handled. This is one reason we feel it's important to get a rabbit from a breeder who specifically breeds for good temperament in their lines.
If you are having issues with the behavior of a rabbit you got from a reputable breeder, contact them and they may be able to help you troubleshoot.
It is important never to allow your rabbit to nip or bite humans, even gently or in play--please see this article on how to handle it (when) if they try it. Just like with dogs or any other pet, rabbits must be taught how to interact appropriately with humans.
It is normal for a rabbit's claws to accidentally scratch you if they are not trimmed often, and they can kick or struggle to get away if they are frightened, startled, or see their cage nearby and want to get in it. You can manage this by holding the rabbit gently and securely, and sometimes it helps to cover the rabbit's eyes or put it in and out of the cage backwards. The more you handle the rabbit confidently and firmly but gently in a way that helps it feel secure, the less it will tend to accidentally scratch you. Keeping the nails very short and smooth is the biggest thing you can do to avoid being scratched.
The karate-kick of death, directed very specifically at you in an attempt to harm you, is not normal in a rabbit with a good temperament.
We do not tolerate aggression or meanness in our rabbits, and we select for good temperaments. In our experience, temperament is greatly affected by heredity, although it is also influenced by the way the rabbit is socialized and handled. This is one reason we feel it's important to get a rabbit from a breeder who specifically breeds for good temperament in their lines.
If you are having issues with the behavior of a rabbit you got from a reputable breeder, contact them and they may be able to help you troubleshoot.
Why do you breed rabbits, when there are so many in shelters that need homes?
We do not believe that breeding good-quality rabbits causes adoptable shelter rabbits to die. We also think that there is a need for reputable breeders raising rabbits of excellent quality, health and temperament. See the Rabbit Overpopulation Myth page on our website for more details.
Do you provide information about how to care for rabbits?
Yes; see here for a copy of our pet rabbit care sheet. If you have a question that's not covered there, drop us an e-mail.
What do you feed your rabbits, and how much does this breed eat?
We feed specially-milled feed made especially for rabbits.
The amount of pellets is adjusted according to each individual rabbits' needs as necessary, The amount needed to maintain a healthy weight can vary from one rabbit and brand of feed to another, but in general we feed 1 cup of our feed per day to adult standard satins, 1/2 cup per day for adult mini satins, and as much as they will eat (free-feed) to growing kits and nursing mothers. We also feed a good-quality grass hay, and occasional treats such as rolled oats, black oil sunflower seeds, flax seed, and greens from our chemical-free yard and garden. We do not recommend feeding treats high in sugar, such as commercial rabbit treats, carrots, or fruit.
We do not add any hormones, chemicals or unnecessary medications to our rabbits' diets or environment. We keep our rabbits healthy by excellent care and using natural supplements like food-grade diatomaceous earth, apple cider vinegar and other safe, natural products. In the rare case that one of our rabbits may need medication, we keep a record of what and when it was given and carefully observe precautions to keep it from getting into the food chain.
The amount of pellets is adjusted according to each individual rabbits' needs as necessary, The amount needed to maintain a healthy weight can vary from one rabbit and brand of feed to another, but in general we feed 1 cup of our feed per day to adult standard satins, 1/2 cup per day for adult mini satins, and as much as they will eat (free-feed) to growing kits and nursing mothers. We also feed a good-quality grass hay, and occasional treats such as rolled oats, black oil sunflower seeds, flax seed, and greens from our chemical-free yard and garden. We do not recommend feeding treats high in sugar, such as commercial rabbit treats, carrots, or fruit.
We do not add any hormones, chemicals or unnecessary medications to our rabbits' diets or environment. We keep our rabbits healthy by excellent care and using natural supplements like food-grade diatomaceous earth, apple cider vinegar and other safe, natural products. In the rare case that one of our rabbits may need medication, we keep a record of what and when it was given and carefully observe precautions to keep it from getting into the food chain.
What age do you wean your rabbits?
We wean around 8 weeks of age or later, and then keep the baby rabbits together for a few days to make sure they have transitioned smoothly to eating solid food without nursing before we separate them or change their environment. We feel that this gives the baby rabbits the best start, and find that our rabbits are very healthy this way.
What kind of supplies do I need for a rabbit?
When purchasing a rabbit you will need to provide a cage or enclosure (pet playpens work great for indoor litterbox-trained rabbits, or you can make your own cube and coroplast cage).
There is no such thing as a cage that's too big, so get the largest you can afford and have space for. Some cages have resting shelves or second stories to give the rabbit more room in the same amount of floor space. Urine guards or raised sides can help keep urine and bedding off the floor. We usually recommend a cage no smaller than 24" x 30" for a standard satin, 18" x 24" for a small mini satin, or 24" x 24" for a non-dwarf mini satin. 16" for mini satins or 18" for satins is a good height.
The bare minimum is that the rabbit has room to stand up on its hind legs, stretch out full-length to lie down, and take several steps to move around the cage comfortably. A larger cage will give them more room for exercise. It's ideal if the rabbit can get daily exercise outside the cage, also.
Air quality is extremely important for rabbits' respiratory health. Good ventilation and cleanliness, keeping ammonia odor from building up, will help to prevent health issues in your rabbit. All types of cages need to be cleaned out as often as needed to prevent ammonia or other odors from forming and to keep the rabbit clean. Usually this is at least once every few days.
In a solid-bottomed cage or a litterbox, be sure that the bedding is not cedar or something that will hurt them to ingest. Pine, aspen, or wood pellets are fine. A paper or corncob-based bedding can work, too, as long as the rabbit doesn't eat too much of it.
If you have a wire-bottomed cage, make sure you empty the tray often enough that the manure in the tray never touches the wire that the rabbit is resting on. With most bedding substrates in a tray under a wire floor, cleaning twice per week is usually sufficient to keep odor from building up, but depending on the rabbit and the cage you may need to do it more often. We use wood animal bedding pellets with organic zeolites added for odor control, and an enzyme spray on the tray surface to help kill bacteria that cause ammonia.
At Shiny Satins Rabbitry, we prefer wire floors--please see our page on "Why Wire?" for more information on this. We recommend 14-gauge double-galvanized wire with 1/2" x 1" holes, as it provides more support for a rabbits' feet than the more common 16-gauge wire. Never use a cage with hardware cloth on the bottom--it will cut up your rabbit's feet. With the heavier-gauge wire we recommend, healthy rabbits with short nails and an adequate padding of fur on their feet will not develop sore hocks from being kept in a clean wire cage. You can also use a resting mat or board if the rabbit likes it and does not soil it.
You will also need a food dish that holds at least a day's worth of food, water bottle (we recommend the 32 oz. size for satins), grass or timothy hay (alfalfa hay is OK for babies, but is too rich in calcium for adult rabbits when combined with the rabbit pellets), nail clippers, grooming brush, and some mineral oil and cotton-tipped swabs for cleaning out anal glands. It is a good idea to monitor your rabbit's weight, even if you need to weigh yourself on a bathroom scale holding and then not holding the rabbit to estimate the rabbit's weight.
Rabbits love toys and need to chew on things to keep their teeth ground down, so untreated wooden toys are great. Some of our rabbits really enjoy the hanging wooden toys with bells on them, and some like to toss around jar lids or roll golf balls around in their cages. Almost all rabbits enjoy a cardboard or wooden hidey-house to play in and chew up.
Rabbits can be clicker-trained just like dogs, and can also be leash-trained and litterbox trained. They're very smart animals.
There is no such thing as a cage that's too big, so get the largest you can afford and have space for. Some cages have resting shelves or second stories to give the rabbit more room in the same amount of floor space. Urine guards or raised sides can help keep urine and bedding off the floor. We usually recommend a cage no smaller than 24" x 30" for a standard satin, 18" x 24" for a small mini satin, or 24" x 24" for a non-dwarf mini satin. 16" for mini satins or 18" for satins is a good height.
The bare minimum is that the rabbit has room to stand up on its hind legs, stretch out full-length to lie down, and take several steps to move around the cage comfortably. A larger cage will give them more room for exercise. It's ideal if the rabbit can get daily exercise outside the cage, also.
Air quality is extremely important for rabbits' respiratory health. Good ventilation and cleanliness, keeping ammonia odor from building up, will help to prevent health issues in your rabbit. All types of cages need to be cleaned out as often as needed to prevent ammonia or other odors from forming and to keep the rabbit clean. Usually this is at least once every few days.
In a solid-bottomed cage or a litterbox, be sure that the bedding is not cedar or something that will hurt them to ingest. Pine, aspen, or wood pellets are fine. A paper or corncob-based bedding can work, too, as long as the rabbit doesn't eat too much of it.
If you have a wire-bottomed cage, make sure you empty the tray often enough that the manure in the tray never touches the wire that the rabbit is resting on. With most bedding substrates in a tray under a wire floor, cleaning twice per week is usually sufficient to keep odor from building up, but depending on the rabbit and the cage you may need to do it more often. We use wood animal bedding pellets with organic zeolites added for odor control, and an enzyme spray on the tray surface to help kill bacteria that cause ammonia.
At Shiny Satins Rabbitry, we prefer wire floors--please see our page on "Why Wire?" for more information on this. We recommend 14-gauge double-galvanized wire with 1/2" x 1" holes, as it provides more support for a rabbits' feet than the more common 16-gauge wire. Never use a cage with hardware cloth on the bottom--it will cut up your rabbit's feet. With the heavier-gauge wire we recommend, healthy rabbits with short nails and an adequate padding of fur on their feet will not develop sore hocks from being kept in a clean wire cage. You can also use a resting mat or board if the rabbit likes it and does not soil it.
You will also need a food dish that holds at least a day's worth of food, water bottle (we recommend the 32 oz. size for satins), grass or timothy hay (alfalfa hay is OK for babies, but is too rich in calcium for adult rabbits when combined with the rabbit pellets), nail clippers, grooming brush, and some mineral oil and cotton-tipped swabs for cleaning out anal glands. It is a good idea to monitor your rabbit's weight, even if you need to weigh yourself on a bathroom scale holding and then not holding the rabbit to estimate the rabbit's weight.
Rabbits love toys and need to chew on things to keep their teeth ground down, so untreated wooden toys are great. Some of our rabbits really enjoy the hanging wooden toys with bells on them, and some like to toss around jar lids or roll golf balls around in their cages. Almost all rabbits enjoy a cardboard or wooden hidey-house to play in and chew up.
Rabbits can be clicker-trained just like dogs, and can also be leash-trained and litterbox trained. They're very smart animals.
Are your rabbits meat rabbits?
Rabbits are multi-purpose animals and can be used for many purposes including show, pets, AND meat. The satin rabbit is a meat and fur breed, and mini satins are a smaller version of the same body type, similar to a Florida White.
We support the humane and responsible use of rabbits for meat, and we do select for large litters and lines that have good mothering skills, growth rates and body type.
Rabbit is a great way to get sustainable, local, humane meat with a small environmental footprint, and can be a great resource for people to become more self-sufficient by raising their own food. Rabbits are efficient feed converters, and produce more meat on less food than most other meat animals. A pair of rabbits can produce more meat in a year than a cow does, while eating 1/6 the amount of feed, and they take up a lot less space!
See our page on rabbits as meat for more information.
We support the humane and responsible use of rabbits for meat, and we do select for large litters and lines that have good mothering skills, growth rates and body type.
Rabbit is a great way to get sustainable, local, humane meat with a small environmental footprint, and can be a great resource for people to become more self-sufficient by raising their own food. Rabbits are efficient feed converters, and produce more meat on less food than most other meat animals. A pair of rabbits can produce more meat in a year than a cow does, while eating 1/6 the amount of feed, and they take up a lot less space!
See our page on rabbits as meat for more information.
Why are some mini satins bigger than the breed standard?
A show-quality mini satin will always carry one dwarf and one non-dwarf gene. A baby with two dwarf genes is called a "peanut" and will not survive beyond the nestbox, as the condition is lethal.
Offspring that don't carry the dwarf gene will be larger than the standard calls for and cannot be shown, but some people like to use these non-dwarf rabbits as brood does or pets. These are often called BUB or BUD, for "big ugly buck/doe"--although often they have very good conformation and quality other than the size issue. Using a BUB/BUD will prevent any peanuts from being created, while still giving you about 50% dwarf-carrying offspring if bred to a rabbit that carries the dwarf gene.
The non-dwarf mini satins are of similar size and build to a Florida White, and we feel they can make a good meat rabbit for people with limited space or small appetites. They are also a good size for feeding whole frozen rabbit to raw-fed pets.
Offspring that don't carry the dwarf gene will be larger than the standard calls for and cannot be shown, but some people like to use these non-dwarf rabbits as brood does or pets. These are often called BUB or BUD, for "big ugly buck/doe"--although often they have very good conformation and quality other than the size issue. Using a BUB/BUD will prevent any peanuts from being created, while still giving you about 50% dwarf-carrying offspring if bred to a rabbit that carries the dwarf gene.
The non-dwarf mini satins are of similar size and build to a Florida White, and we feel they can make a good meat rabbit for people with limited space or small appetites. They are also a good size for feeding whole frozen rabbit to raw-fed pets.
What colors are compatible to breed with siamese satins?
Siamese satins, unlike siamese sables in most other rabbit breeds, are a chinchilla-based color. Basically a siamese satin is a chinchilla rabbit with self and non-extension modifiers: the genetic code is aa B- c(chd)- D- ee or possibly aa B- c(chm)- D- ee. This means that you can breed siamese to siamese or broken siamese and get consistent results of siamese offspring, with the chance of a white or californian if both parents carry one of those genes. With most of our siamese, we consistently get litters of all siamese when breeding two siamese to each other.
For beginners or those who want to breed specifically for siamese, we recommend breeding siamese to siamese or broken siamese.
The self-chin black is also a chinchilla-based color--it's a chinchilla rabbit with self and full-extension. If you breed siamese or chinchilla to white and get black offspring, you know they are self chinchilla and not true genetic black rabbits. An ermine rabbit (white with blue-grey or brown eyes) is a chinchilla rabbit with agouti and non-extension.
So, siamese can be compatible to breed with any of the other chinchilla-based varieties: chinchilla, siamese, self-chin black, and ermine. The self and non-extension genes are recessive, so both parents must carry those in order to get siamese out of the pairing. We recommend that you try to avoid getting dilute (blue) or chocolate into your siamese gene pool if possible, since blue and chocolate are not showable in either siamese or chinchilla, and since they're recessive they're hard to get out of the lines once they are in.
Siamese to white can result in siamese offspring if the white rabbit carries self and non-extension genes. Some people will breed to other colors, such as true black, but this may take an extra generation or two to get siamese to show up again in the lines. It can also make things complicated if you don't know whether you have a true black or a self-chin black.
For beginners or those who want to breed specifically for siamese, we recommend breeding siamese to siamese or broken siamese.
The self-chin black is also a chinchilla-based color--it's a chinchilla rabbit with self and full-extension. If you breed siamese or chinchilla to white and get black offspring, you know they are self chinchilla and not true genetic black rabbits. An ermine rabbit (white with blue-grey or brown eyes) is a chinchilla rabbit with agouti and non-extension.
So, siamese can be compatible to breed with any of the other chinchilla-based varieties: chinchilla, siamese, self-chin black, and ermine. The self and non-extension genes are recessive, so both parents must carry those in order to get siamese out of the pairing. We recommend that you try to avoid getting dilute (blue) or chocolate into your siamese gene pool if possible, since blue and chocolate are not showable in either siamese or chinchilla, and since they're recessive they're hard to get out of the lines once they are in.
Siamese to white can result in siamese offspring if the white rabbit carries self and non-extension genes. Some people will breed to other colors, such as true black, but this may take an extra generation or two to get siamese to show up again in the lines. It can also make things complicated if you don't know whether you have a true black or a self-chin black.
Where can I learn about rabbit color genetics?
A couple of good resources on rabbit color genetics are the the Color Genetics Primer at Three Little Ladies Rabbitry and the Rabbit Genetics color chart and information at The Nature Trail. Another really excellent source of information and place to ask questions is the Rabbit_Genetics Yahoo! group.
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