Why do so many people keep rabbits in cages with wire floors? Aren't wire floors cruel because they cause sore hocks?
Actually, wire floors are often the best choice for keeping a rabbit clean, healthy and comfortable.
In fact, there are a number of clinical studies that have found that rabbits raised on wire floors may be healthier and have better growth rates. Some studies have even found that, given a choice, rabbits may choose wire mesh floors over other substrates. See our article on Wire Floor Research for links and details on some of these studies.
Litter or solid floors can become dirty very quickly. The first time the rabbit urinates or defecates, they are now in an environment in which they are coming into contact with soiled bedding or may sit in a puddle of urine. This can make them more susceptible to problems like parasites, urine scald or sore hocks. In a solid-bottomed cage they can also kick bedding out onto the floor, get it stuck in their fur, or eat it (most substrates are not good for their tummies).
In a solid-bottomed cage, a rabbit is closer to their urine and feces. Since ammonia is heavier than air, they may be exposed to a higher level of ammonia fumes being down in the bedding than if they were suspended above the same type of bedding in a wire cage cleaned out with the same frequency. Solid-bottomed cages frequently have solid sides rising several inches from the floor, which may tend to hold in ammonia fumes more than a wire cage would. Even in wire cages with urine guards, there is a gap between the tray and the cage floor where ammonia gas can escape. Cages with solid plastic bottoms often do not have a place for ammonia to escape below the level of the rabbit's nose when it is lying down.
Because rabbits' toenails extend beyond the tips of their toes even when properly trimmed, in the wild they would sink into the ground to provide traction and allow the foot to sit flat on the ground. Keeping a rabbit on a solid surface without much give (such as carpet, wood or linoleum) forces them to sit on the backs of their heels because the toenails are pushed up instead of sinking into the surface.
Wire floors or a thick bed of a compliant surface such as grass or straw will allow the rabbit's natural foot mechanics to work properly so that its weight can be spread out over the entire base of the foot. Wood shavings or paper bedding should work also in theory. But in practice our experience is that the rabbit kicks that type of bedding around and digs in it, and often actually ends up walking on the hard plastic surface of the cage floor.
Solid floors can be a good solution for some rabbits, but be aware that they do have their own drawbacks. With solid-floor cages it is particularly important to keep them very clean, as the rabbit is in constant contact with the bedding. A litterbox-trained rabbit where the litterbox is emptied every day or two may do very well on a solid floor if their nails are kept short, especially if they have a way to get off the rigid hard surface.
The biggest potential drawback with solid floors or any absorbent surface (such as wood shavings, hay, cardboard, or carpet) is that it will almost inevitably become contaminated with urine and feces. This tends to raise the levels of parasites (especially coccidia) and can make it more difficult to prevent issues such as hutch burn, foot fungus and sore hocks. Solid floors can work, but are often more difficult to clean and sterilize and may require much more frequent cleaning and/or other measures of parasite control beyond simply keeping the environment clean.
The misconception about wire floors being bad for rabbits' feet is probably based on two things:
First, some people use improperly-sized wire for cage floors, and this likely WILL damage the rabbits' feet. Hardware cloth, sometimes called "cheese wire", is too fine a gauge for the bottom of a rabbit cage and may cut up a rabbit's feet. Any wire with rough edges or sharp spots, or excessively rusty wire should not be used for the bottom of a rabbit cage.
We feel that the best wire for a rabbit cage floor is 14-gauge double-galvanized wire with 1/2" x 1" holes, although 16-gauge galvanized wire with 1/2" x 1" holes may be acceptable for smaller breeds, too. If you use 16-gauge wire with a medium to large breed, we do recommend a resting mat of some sort.
Some small breeds can be on wire with 1/2" x 1/2" holes, but for most breeds (even our mini satins) this is too small for the droppings to fall through. Most cage manufacturers put the 1/2" wire spaces on the top, so that the rabbit is standing on the surface with wires as close together as is practical while still allowing droppings to fall through. This provides a better surface for their feet. Anything bigger than 1/2" x 1" openings may not provide enough support for the rabbits' feet, although some experts recommend wire with holes up to 3/4" x 3/4" for the larger breeds. If you do get wire with larger holes, you may need proportionally larger-gauge wire to provide an adequate surface for the rabbit to stand on.
Wood slats or plastic grids can also be appropriate surfaces for rabbits, as long as there is enough support for the feet and no rough surfaces or splinters, and they are able to be kept clean.
Resting mats made of plastic, wood, coconut fiber, woven straw or other substances can be nice for a rabbit to sit on in a cage. However, some rabbits will urinate and defecate on them and then sit in the soiled spot. Coming into contact with urine or feces for sustained periods of time can cause urine scald or sore hocks, so if the rabbit insists on dirtying the mat this may not promote the best foot health. Soiled surfaces also increase the risk of parasites getting to clinically significant levels. Some rabbits may walk around the mats and refuse to sit on them.
People who raise very large breeds such as Flemish Giant rabbits may find it optimal to use a solid floor or resting mat due to their weight, and some other rabbits may require mats to maintain optimum foot health (although there are people that raise these breeds quite successfully on heavier-gauge wire flooring). But for most breeds resting mats are not always practical or needed.
We personally prefer to use slotted plastic resting mats as needed, as these are clinically proven effective, but are easy to keep clean and sterilize, so do not have as much risk as causing problems with parasites or issues due to foot soiling as some other types of mats. However, if the rabbit isn't excessively soiling the mat and it is kept clean and maintained, other types of mats can work also.
Secondly, some rabbits without thick fur pads on their feet or who have poor bone structure (feet that are too narrow or placed too close together to properly support the rabbit's weight) are susceptible to sore hocks no matter what surface they are kept on. These rabbits can develop sore hocks on any surface and may require special care.
Some breeds, such as those with rex fur, do have naturally thinner fur on the feet compared to other breeds of rabbit. Breeders help them maintain optimum foot health by providing resting mats as needed and by selecting breeding stock with the thickest foot pads possible. The giant breeds, as previously mentioned, also need solid floors because of the sheer weight being placed on the feet. An obese rabbit may also place more pressure on the foot pads and be more prone to sore hocks. Age can also be a factor.
Most commonly, though, normal-sized rabbits with good fur and foot structure will either have ample fur padding on the bottoms of their feet, and/or will develop calluses which protect their feet. Calluses are NOT the same thing as sore hocks and do not become raw or bleed, and are not uncomfortable for the rabbit. They are very much like the calluses people get on their feet with normal walking--just thickened skin that protects the surface of the foot. Rabbits on surfaces other than wire tend to develop calluses as they age also.
Most responsible breeders will not use rabbits with poor bone structure or excessively thin foot pads in a breeding program, and will not allow rabbits that are overly prone to sore hocks to reproduce. This results in a line of rabbits with thick fur pads and healthy feet that do not easily get sore hocks.
A rabbit with good bone structure and thick fur pads on its feet is not likely to develop sore hocks in a clean cage with a proper wire floor.
Each caretaker must balance the necessity for cleanliness and comfort to provide the optimum environment for their rabbits' individual health. For some rabbits, this may mean solid floors, while for others this may mean wire floors with or without mats. The key is to know your breed and your individual rabbits, and make adjustments if necessary. Every setups has its pros and cons, and every rabbit raiser has different factors and individual variables to take into consideration. There's no one right way to do it. :)
It is important to realize that what is the best setup in one situation may not be the case for another. Most rabbit owners and breeders will adjust as needed to best provide for the needs of each individual rabbit. They need to have the freedom to make the choice that is best for their own animals.
In fact, there are a number of clinical studies that have found that rabbits raised on wire floors may be healthier and have better growth rates. Some studies have even found that, given a choice, rabbits may choose wire mesh floors over other substrates. See our article on Wire Floor Research for links and details on some of these studies.
Litter or solid floors can become dirty very quickly. The first time the rabbit urinates or defecates, they are now in an environment in which they are coming into contact with soiled bedding or may sit in a puddle of urine. This can make them more susceptible to problems like parasites, urine scald or sore hocks. In a solid-bottomed cage they can also kick bedding out onto the floor, get it stuck in their fur, or eat it (most substrates are not good for their tummies).
In a solid-bottomed cage, a rabbit is closer to their urine and feces. Since ammonia is heavier than air, they may be exposed to a higher level of ammonia fumes being down in the bedding than if they were suspended above the same type of bedding in a wire cage cleaned out with the same frequency. Solid-bottomed cages frequently have solid sides rising several inches from the floor, which may tend to hold in ammonia fumes more than a wire cage would. Even in wire cages with urine guards, there is a gap between the tray and the cage floor where ammonia gas can escape. Cages with solid plastic bottoms often do not have a place for ammonia to escape below the level of the rabbit's nose when it is lying down.
Because rabbits' toenails extend beyond the tips of their toes even when properly trimmed, in the wild they would sink into the ground to provide traction and allow the foot to sit flat on the ground. Keeping a rabbit on a solid surface without much give (such as carpet, wood or linoleum) forces them to sit on the backs of their heels because the toenails are pushed up instead of sinking into the surface.
Wire floors or a thick bed of a compliant surface such as grass or straw will allow the rabbit's natural foot mechanics to work properly so that its weight can be spread out over the entire base of the foot. Wood shavings or paper bedding should work also in theory. But in practice our experience is that the rabbit kicks that type of bedding around and digs in it, and often actually ends up walking on the hard plastic surface of the cage floor.
Solid floors can be a good solution for some rabbits, but be aware that they do have their own drawbacks. With solid-floor cages it is particularly important to keep them very clean, as the rabbit is in constant contact with the bedding. A litterbox-trained rabbit where the litterbox is emptied every day or two may do very well on a solid floor if their nails are kept short, especially if they have a way to get off the rigid hard surface.
The biggest potential drawback with solid floors or any absorbent surface (such as wood shavings, hay, cardboard, or carpet) is that it will almost inevitably become contaminated with urine and feces. This tends to raise the levels of parasites (especially coccidia) and can make it more difficult to prevent issues such as hutch burn, foot fungus and sore hocks. Solid floors can work, but are often more difficult to clean and sterilize and may require much more frequent cleaning and/or other measures of parasite control beyond simply keeping the environment clean.
The misconception about wire floors being bad for rabbits' feet is probably based on two things:
First, some people use improperly-sized wire for cage floors, and this likely WILL damage the rabbits' feet. Hardware cloth, sometimes called "cheese wire", is too fine a gauge for the bottom of a rabbit cage and may cut up a rabbit's feet. Any wire with rough edges or sharp spots, or excessively rusty wire should not be used for the bottom of a rabbit cage.
We feel that the best wire for a rabbit cage floor is 14-gauge double-galvanized wire with 1/2" x 1" holes, although 16-gauge galvanized wire with 1/2" x 1" holes may be acceptable for smaller breeds, too. If you use 16-gauge wire with a medium to large breed, we do recommend a resting mat of some sort.
Some small breeds can be on wire with 1/2" x 1/2" holes, but for most breeds (even our mini satins) this is too small for the droppings to fall through. Most cage manufacturers put the 1/2" wire spaces on the top, so that the rabbit is standing on the surface with wires as close together as is practical while still allowing droppings to fall through. This provides a better surface for their feet. Anything bigger than 1/2" x 1" openings may not provide enough support for the rabbits' feet, although some experts recommend wire with holes up to 3/4" x 3/4" for the larger breeds. If you do get wire with larger holes, you may need proportionally larger-gauge wire to provide an adequate surface for the rabbit to stand on.
Wood slats or plastic grids can also be appropriate surfaces for rabbits, as long as there is enough support for the feet and no rough surfaces or splinters, and they are able to be kept clean.
Resting mats made of plastic, wood, coconut fiber, woven straw or other substances can be nice for a rabbit to sit on in a cage. However, some rabbits will urinate and defecate on them and then sit in the soiled spot. Coming into contact with urine or feces for sustained periods of time can cause urine scald or sore hocks, so if the rabbit insists on dirtying the mat this may not promote the best foot health. Soiled surfaces also increase the risk of parasites getting to clinically significant levels. Some rabbits may walk around the mats and refuse to sit on them.
People who raise very large breeds such as Flemish Giant rabbits may find it optimal to use a solid floor or resting mat due to their weight, and some other rabbits may require mats to maintain optimum foot health (although there are people that raise these breeds quite successfully on heavier-gauge wire flooring). But for most breeds resting mats are not always practical or needed.
We personally prefer to use slotted plastic resting mats as needed, as these are clinically proven effective, but are easy to keep clean and sterilize, so do not have as much risk as causing problems with parasites or issues due to foot soiling as some other types of mats. However, if the rabbit isn't excessively soiling the mat and it is kept clean and maintained, other types of mats can work also.
Secondly, some rabbits without thick fur pads on their feet or who have poor bone structure (feet that are too narrow or placed too close together to properly support the rabbit's weight) are susceptible to sore hocks no matter what surface they are kept on. These rabbits can develop sore hocks on any surface and may require special care.
Some breeds, such as those with rex fur, do have naturally thinner fur on the feet compared to other breeds of rabbit. Breeders help them maintain optimum foot health by providing resting mats as needed and by selecting breeding stock with the thickest foot pads possible. The giant breeds, as previously mentioned, also need solid floors because of the sheer weight being placed on the feet. An obese rabbit may also place more pressure on the foot pads and be more prone to sore hocks. Age can also be a factor.
Most commonly, though, normal-sized rabbits with good fur and foot structure will either have ample fur padding on the bottoms of their feet, and/or will develop calluses which protect their feet. Calluses are NOT the same thing as sore hocks and do not become raw or bleed, and are not uncomfortable for the rabbit. They are very much like the calluses people get on their feet with normal walking--just thickened skin that protects the surface of the foot. Rabbits on surfaces other than wire tend to develop calluses as they age also.
Most responsible breeders will not use rabbits with poor bone structure or excessively thin foot pads in a breeding program, and will not allow rabbits that are overly prone to sore hocks to reproduce. This results in a line of rabbits with thick fur pads and healthy feet that do not easily get sore hocks.
A rabbit with good bone structure and thick fur pads on its feet is not likely to develop sore hocks in a clean cage with a proper wire floor.
Each caretaker must balance the necessity for cleanliness and comfort to provide the optimum environment for their rabbits' individual health. For some rabbits, this may mean solid floors, while for others this may mean wire floors with or without mats. The key is to know your breed and your individual rabbits, and make adjustments if necessary. Every setups has its pros and cons, and every rabbit raiser has different factors and individual variables to take into consideration. There's no one right way to do it. :)
It is important to realize that what is the best setup in one situation may not be the case for another. Most rabbit owners and breeders will adjust as needed to best provide for the needs of each individual rabbit. They need to have the freedom to make the choice that is best for their own animals.
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